Umbrail and Stelvio Passes

Training done, the main course simply had to be an ascent of the mighty Stelvio - one of the most famous stretches of road in the cycling world (and potentially the motoring world too).  The map we'd picked up from the Information Centre included a route suggestion, which we decided to follow.

We woke relatively early, and had a bowl of porridge each, washed down with a couple of brews of stovetop coffee.  We were suited up and ready to roll by 8am.  Mum had said she'd try to sleep in, but we were treated to signora waving us off from one of the apartment windows - it all felt very authentic!

Once again, we started climbing immediately, and soon came across a notice warning of a road closure the following day, courtesy of a cycling event.  After an initial sense of relief, I realised this was going to stuff up our plan to drive over the Stelvio the following morning, en route to the Dolomites.  (Fortunately, the Gavia has opened since our arrival in Bormio, so Plan B looks unlikely to be necessary - back tracking to Lake Como!)

As we climbed, I was fascinated to see if we'd be able to spot the Lago di Cancano dam from below, in the valley off to our left.  In the end, it remained out of sight.

After a handful of switchbacks, we hit a series of Galleria - avalanche protection for the road.  Most were two lane, but one had a set of lights - one for the cars, and the other for bicycles.  Nice!

There were transmission lines running down the valley, and I'm damned if I could see anything other than helicopter access to some of the pylon sites.  I guess when you have millenia to establish infrastructure, you can build some incredible stuff, but the commitment to getting across these mountains is nonetheless impressive.  

After the tunnels, we started ascending a series of switchbacks, affording great views back down the valley.

There was an impressive river running to the left of the road, kicking up impressive spray in some sections.

As luck would have it, I was only a few metres behind Sarah when I spotted a road-side professional photographer ahead.  One of my absolute favourite riding shots was on the way up to Col du Glandon, acquired from a similar dude, and I was looking forward to doing some shopping on the internet by day's end.  I doubled back to take a photo of his signage, and then continued the ride up the hill.

We took a short section of retired road, and I caught some movement on the hill ahead.  We got a bit closer, and sure enough, there were a few marmots darting around.  We faffed around trying to get photos using Sarah's epic zoom lens on her phone, but then a few minutes later I passed another pair only a few metres from the road.

After a short section through a gorge, the valley opened right out, and it looked like the gradients were easing off.  That said, we were probably over 2000m by now, and the air was very cool, so it wasn't exactly easy riding.

As the valley curved round, Passo Stelvio came into view, and it became clear why the air was so cold!  There was still a fair bit of snow around.  At a few large buildings, I stopped to get some extra clothes on.  I'd carried a long-sleeved fleece hoodie, and put this on over my base layer, then armwarmers and my damp cycling jersey, then shakedry jacket and finally my windproof vest.  I threw a buff on over my cotton cap, and put the hood of the hoodie up, then hoped like hell that would all take the edge off the low temperatures and windchill during the impending 1600m descent!

Luckily, the Umbrail Pass was only a minute's ride away, as it would have been a shame to work up a lather with all that gear on.  If you want to sneak into Switzerland, this wouldn't be a bad choice, as the only evidence of the border we'd just crossed was a small sign on the side of the road with "Dogane 
| Douane" but there was no sign of either (Customs).

To add to the incredibly cold wind coming off the Stelvio Pass, we had a bit of light rain, but otherwise, the alpine part of the descent was lovely.  

Once below the treeline, we had a short section of roadworks to contend with, and then there was nothing else for it, but to admire the first Swiss village of the trip.

We didn't ride through that one, but the next we came to was fouled up by virtue of very large vehicles trying to pass one another on very narrow streets.  Luckily, our bikes were even narrower, and we were not held up for nearly as long as some.  Otherwise, it was a hoot to start seeing a whole lot of German on the sides of buildings...!

A mere 10 minutes later, we passed an actual customs post, but they seemed to have little interest in us or anyone else.  Our visit to Switzerland had lasted about 40 minutes!  Breakfast was starting to feel like it had been a long time ago, so I deviated from the route I'd mapped at Glorenz, aka Glurns.  We faffed around a wee bit, but that did mean we got to ride along some old fortifications, en route to a food truck.

The menu seemed to be all in German, so I dusted off a few years of language study, and ordered zweimal schnitzel im brot (bitte) - the internet reckons that about 70% of the Italians living in this region speak German.  Those slid down nicely, though it was nice to know we weren't cracking straight into the next climb!

A cycle path ran right by the food truck, so we took it, in the direction of Prato Allo Stelvio.  It was a veritable cycle tourist highway, and a pleasant change from the road.

I was getting pretty desperate for a coffee, and we found a suitable supply.  Sarah didn't quite manage to retract her macchiato order, but nor did she offer it to me!  On the other hand, she was very glad for my help with her magnificent hazelnut sundae!  We both agreed that was bound to help us get up the hill.

The bottom of the climb was full of curiosities - a strangely shaped museum building, and then a roadside sculpture garden.  

Then came a section of road with an uphill cycle lane, running alongside a small river.  Every so often, there would be a short break in the armco barrier, and this apparently was sufficient for a sign signalling the cycle path had ended, followed by a new sign saying the cycle path has resumed.  I can only imagine the ranting and raving there would be at home over the costs of this...

My legs weren't feeling great, likely due to a lack of snacking during the morning's 20km climb.  The cold wind blowing down the valley wasn't helping - while I didn't feel like I was battling a headwind, the temperature was unpleasant, and I shuddered (or shivered) to think of what it would be like higher up the mountain.  The local sheep seem to have evolved massive ears, which maybe help keep their cheeks warm when there's an ill wind blowing.

We passed a couple of villages - Gomagoi, which didn't sound at all Italian - and Trafoi.  We were riding a bit slower than most, and there were plenty of cyclists riding past.  The ones going up were generally wearing summer kit, while the ones coming down seemed much less happy, and were really rugged up!

One strange aspect of this side of the pass, was the complete absence of signage.  The other side had the typical markers every kilometre, but only every so often would a corner be labelled with its elevation.  They obviously figured the switchback count-down (from 46) was more than enough.  And what wonderful switchbacks they were!

With about 1000m still to ascend we had a bit of rain, and I put my Shakedry jacket on for the duration.  Initially unzipped, it was getting colder and colder, and while I was a bit nervous about how sweaty I was inside the jacket, cutting out the wind off my chest seemed like a good idea.  With about 700m to climb, the pass came into view - and it loomed above us for the rest of the climb - sometimes inconceivably high, despite simple arithmetic telling us we were getting close...

We'd passed a restaurant at 2000m, and I was sorely tempted to head in for a hot drink, but instead kept going.  I tried to pick corners out of the wind to wait for Sarah, and we shared a delicious bar we'd bought from the supermarket.  It appeared to be lined by paper, but I couldn't for the life of me peel it off, and decided I'd just eat it - only to discover that it was edible all along (I think...!).

I then decided I was getting too cold to stop again, but the switchbacks gave not only the classic Stelvio views, but also an opportunity to monitor Sarah's progress (in between an even corner and an odd one).  I spotted a few tactical walks, but generally, she was only a corner or two behind.

Corner 1 finally came, and then the last push up to the pass itself.  It was almost a shame not to have any more odd-numbered switchbacks (the left hand turns), each of which included a miniscule but otherwise welcome downhill section...!

There, I found a hive of activity, with all manner of souvenir shops and dueling bratwurst vendors.  I chose the one which seemed to be most sheltered from the wind, and ordered a bratwurst burger - I accepted the offers of sauerkraut and mustard, but declined the onions.  While that was being prepared, I stripped down and put my hoodie on against my skin - aside from taking off my damp baselayer and cap, I was dressed as for the Umbrail descent.  Nothing else I had in my frame bag was going to be much use, though I didn't think of fashioning some duct-tape gloves...!

The burger was a godsend, and having something hot in my stomach really took the edge off the cold.  There were some indoor restaurants I could have hidden in (presumably they would have been toasty warm), but I didn't want to miss Sarah.  She arrived just as I'd finished my burger, and seemed content with just putting her hoodie on - she's made from much sterner stock than I, at least when it comes to the cold.  We grabbed a fridge magnet from one of the souvenir shops, and then began the 21km descent to Bormio.

It was unpleasantly cold.  My Garmin read 6 degrees, but that wasn't factoring in the wind chill when riding at 40-60km/h.  Maybe I should have bought some souvenir gloves instead...!

I was glad to have taken so many photos on the way up the hill, and my hands weren't really up to much on the way down.  I was fascinated that they did seem to be able to work, despite feeling about twice as large as usual!  

I almost rear-ended Sarah when she abruptly pulled over.  She's spotted someone on the roadside looking up the hill with binoculars.  On inspection, they were admiring a small herd of Ibexes.  (The mathematician in me wonders if that should be Ibicies...?!)

We barely had to turn a pedal, though it did help to do so coming out of the (tighter and flatter) right hand switchbacks.  Once back in town, I swung by the Information Centre to ask about driving directions, and then home to start the thawing out process.

That done, thanks to a cup of tea, followed by a cup of hot water, followed by a long hot shower, we suited up for dinner.  Feeling brave, we took a punt on a bar about 10 metres walk from our front door.  When the power was on, it was always packed, and the only doubt we had was about the outdoor seating.  It turned out the air temperature wasn't too bad, and the food and company were both delicious.  Sarah and I had lasagne, while Mum had Manfrigole Saracene - buckwheat crepes laden with some meat, cheese and greens.  Luckily, she was willing to share!

Stats:  103km ridden, temperature range between 5 and 34 degrees (while we were scoffing the sundae, and we and bikes were out in the sun).  About 3100m climbed, and the longest ascent of the Stelvio ticked off!