Saturday, November 3, 2018

Labour weekend off the beaten track

One of the downsides of my focus on racing and solo or family adventures over the last few years has been a dearth of quality time with my old buddy Simon.

Not that I needed a reminder of how much I enjoy riding with him, we did a solid three days together in late-January, just before he and his amazing daughter Miro rode the North Island leg of the 2018 Tour Aotearoa on a MTB tandem.  They'll be heading to do the South Island in December, so I took it upon myself to suggest we hang out over Labour Weekend, partly for the company, but also as a bit of a training block for Simon.

Our last "spring tour" was way back in November 2012, and while it was an absolute cracker, we didn't follow up the following year.  Traditionally, Simon has taken the lead on route planning, but this time, I had in mind the remote and surprisingly vast area around Pongaroa - east of Pahiatua - in the northern Wairarapa.

During a cycle tour between National Park and Featherston, Sarah and I had spent a night at the Glenross Backpackers 9km south of the tiny township - Pauline had been a great host, and I'd been looking forward to staying there again.  While Simon and I had previously carried overnight gear on our bikes, I thought Glenross would make a great base, and a couple of nights' accommodation would give us the opportunity to do three decent rides in the area.

We decided to break the  relatively slow 190km drive from Wellington into two chunks, and stayed in Carterton on the Friday night.  The next morning, we packed the coffee machine into the car, and then made our way up Route 52 via Masterton New World.  When we arrived at Glenross, we found we had the place to ourselves, and grabbed the two rooms nearest the communal lounge area.  After loading the perishables into the fridge, it was time to suit up for our first ride of the weekend.

Critical section of the most excellent AA Touring Map

Coastal Loop:  106km, and about that many kowhai trees

We set off south along Route 52, and within 10 minutes came to our turnoff onto Huia Road.  It was gravel right from the get-go, so instantly our MTBs felt more appropriate.

It didn't take long for us to pick up on the fact that this valley is full of kowhai trees - in bloom at this time of year.  These trips together always serve up something unique, but not usually within the first hour!!!

Kowhai central
Our mountain bikes helped smooth out the bumps (micro and macro), and while the hills were less noticable as a result, from time to time we got stunning views which reminded us how isolated we were.

Looking north
We joined the main road from Pongaroa out to the coast about mid-way along its length.  It was gravel by the time we met it, and with a stonking tail wind, we made good time.  The first views of the ocean were exciting, and the surf was putting on a good show for us.

Just before Akitio, the road turned to seal, and it was about then that we encountered our first car, over 40km into our ride!  The are plenty of place names on New Zealand's maps, and it always amuses me that you can never quite be sure what you're going to get - from a house or two (or sometimes less), through to a quite substantial settlement.  Akitio was one of the latter, and the road in traversed the hill above it, giving us glimpses of the dozens of seaside holiday-homes.

Simon nabbed us a spot with a view and made good use of the unexpected cellphone reception, while I went in search of a shop - not really because we needed one, but just because we could!

I got a few friendly waves, and returned to Simon with a couple of drinks from the holiday camp store, and a smile on my face.

Main drag, Akitio

Akitio was a lovely spot, and it was a shame to leave, not least because the wind that had propelled us towards the coast was now in our faces.  I took point, and tried to make sense of the wind, ever-changing gradient, and the sluggish MTB tyres, going hard enough to make good progress, but not so hard to cook myself or my cobber!

After about 30km of mostly false-flat sealed road, we came to the intersection with Route 52.  We'd foregone a side loop to the north, but I'd made a pitch for a back-road towards Pongaroa.  I succeeded and we made the right turn off Route 52 after a mere 50 metres on it.  It was nice to hear the crunch of gravel again, and to be out of the wind.

The gradient was sweet as we climbed out of the valley.  We crossed a saddle and descended, before passing through an intersection we intended to come back to the next day.

Turnoff to Waihi Falls

We rode parallel with Route 52 for about 10km, climbing as we went, before dropping down to rejoin the main road at a high-point, leaving us a short and fast ride into Pongaroa.

The pub was open, and we headed in for a bowl of fries and a cold drink each.  After smashing those down, I volunteered to ride back to Glenross for the car - estimating a 45 minute round trip, Simon was happy to entertain himself, and I even treated myself to a short shower before heading back in.

I had a rare case of food envy upon spotting a neighbouring patron's "Fish Meal", but we got back to Glenross with suitably full bellies in any case.  I'd brought a stack of unread Listeners from home, and we cranked up the fire, just because!

The loop was just shy of 107km, with perhaps 50km of sealed road.  We could have done without the strong, cold wind, but the company was mint, and the scenery constantly engaging.  I honestly believe I saw more kowhai trees on this ride, than I'd seen my whole life up to this point!.  Data:

Day 2:  Crossing the Puketoi Range

After a solid sleep, and a hearty breakfast, it was time to roll out again, this time initially north along Route 52.  The Pongaroa store was closed, so there was no temptation for an early morning tea, and as a result, our first stop was at the turn-off to Waihi Falls.  I've passed this sign half a dozen times now on a glorious road loop connecting Eketahuna, Pahiatua and Pongaroa, and I was excited to finally be checking the falls out.

Puketoi Ranges in the background

The road was immediately gravel, and before long we were riding only a couple of kilometres east of our previous afternoon's route.  I love the sense of adventure that riding in totally unfamiliar places brings, but also, enjoy when unfamiliar and slightly familiar intersect...

A little bit of navigation was required, but the falls were signposted, so there wasn't really any need to pay attention to the maps we had, and they were more so for the riding after we'd finished our sightseeing.

The falls themselves were beautiful, and also quite intriguing - water seemed to be cascading off the entire length of a ledge, despite it appearing to fall away from right to left.

This was a great spot for a wee picnic, and a viewing point from the track on the way out gave some insight into why the water was not completely favouring the lowest point of the shelf.

Waihi Falls, in all its beauty
The falls sits at the end of a dead-end road, and once we'd undone that, we had to back-track to a three-way intersection, whereupon we turned right onto Towai Road.  We had a 550-metre ascent ahead of us, but it turned out the road-builders had been incredibly careful, and despite the foothills being quite complicated, they'd been inconceivably successful in finding a route that climbed all the way up to the crossing of the main range.

Destination:  the we dip in the ridge above Simon's helmet!

After a long climb featuring a short snack stop, we reached the saddle, and despite feeling like we were in the middle of nowhere, laughed as our phones started pinging off...!  While the sun was out, there was a cold wind blowing, and I was annoyed to have under-dressed.  Nonetheless, we tried as best we could to find a spot out of the wind, and admired the view - yesterday's ocean was just visible at one point on the horizon.

Looking east

The descent wasn't at all what I was expecting, with much less bush, and a slower loss of elevation that I'd predicted.  Oh, and a massive limeworks...

As we neared the valley floor, there were always interesting things to look at, including pockets of native bush, large rock outcrops and a stunning pile of firewood.

As with Saturday's ride, from the intersection to Coonoor, we had a brief glimpse of the next day's route.   From there to Makuri, we were on a bit of road we were intending to ride in the opposite direction the following day - about half of it was sealed, so fast travel.

We had a long sit down below the church in Makuri - the nature of the roads we'd been riding meant plenty of talking, but it was also a pleasure to do so without distractions.  Eventually though, it was time to crack into the remaining hurdle, namely the road ascent back over the range.

Simon about to round the bend about half way up the climb

The wind was mostly in our favour, and we made relatively short work of the climb.  After only a couple of minutes descent, we swung right onto the gravel Rimu Road.  Once again, we found ourselves on a ridge that eliminated a lot of climbing (the main road goes up and down constantly), and we descended virtually all the way back to Route 52.  Our accommodation was a minute or two north, and I was glad to be getting there with all the blood on the inside, after almost screwing up an off camber corner a few hundred metres before the end of Rimu Road!

We ate in - taking advantage of the carload of groceries we'd arrived with - but did treat ourselves to a spot of dessert (and WiFi) back at the Pongaroa pub!

By the time we hit the sack, we'd laundered all of our riding gear, and were basking in the glory of another successful day's riding.  All up, we covered 87km, with about 30km of sealed road.  Aside from a bit of wind chill, the day had pretty much been perfect.  Data:

Some Classic New Zealand Mountain Bike Riding

I'd mapped a third ride, along the lines of the previous two, but with neither the mountain range, nor the coast as features.  Simon had countered with "The Makairo Track (and old road a little bit like Fishers track, the last time [he] did it at least)."  Sounded like fun!

We packed up the car, and stashed some cash for Pauline under our bed linen.  We decided the very direct Rimu Road route was not worth the hassle, and instead drove to Makuri via Pongaroa.  We were too early to grab snacks at the store (who'd advertised being open despite the Labour Day public holiday).

After parking at the Makuri School, we were soon retracing the ride up to the turnoff to Coonoor.  At the intersection, I took an almost identical photo, amusing to me given the completely different significance of the way-finding signs.

Sunday:  Pass of the Rising Sun to Makuri; Monday:  Makuri to Coonoor

If we passed through Coonoor en route to the Makairo Road turnoff, it wasn't evident, but the ever decreasing scale of the road was.

Go - no turning intended

There were a couple of vehicles parked at a road-end, though the line on my GPS map continued unchanged.

While it is always nice to ride off road without having to stop for obstacles, I'd switched off a little, and through lack of concentration, aversion to riding through mud and/or puddles, and eagerness not to brush any of the nasty onga onga in the area, was considerably slower than Simon.

Eventually the track came to an end, at least as far as the GPS map was concerned, but on the ground it wasn't at all obvious why.

End of the road?!  NOT!

The quality of drainage was highly variable, but the gradient pretty constant, and it was a pleasure to ride.

The Makairo Track traversing immediately behind me, and on the ridge in the background, the saddle we'd crossed the day prior.

At the summit, we sat down in the sun - a bloody pleasant experience without a cold wind blowing.  Once again, we found ourselves reflecting on how nice it was to be riding together, and also on our good luck (and/or management) over the years in picking great places to ride.

Looking west from our picnic spot

Between the valley road and the Makairo Track itself, we'd gained about 400m since the car, and we peeled off all of that height plus a bit more over the next 9km or so.  Near the end of the single-track (or, overgrown double track), we found the likely reason that the track had slipped off the map - a partially washed out bridge - and soon after we were flying on along on a dry gravel surface again.

The foundations at the near end have long since vanished from under this bridge

At the intersection with Surreydale Road, we had a decision to make.  An old map at the backpackers had shown a through route straight back to Makuri, but the more recent maps suggested no public access.  We hadn't had the wherewithal to research the legality of riding through, and weren't keen to get shouted at (or worse), and didn't particularly feel like adding extra kilometres, potentially elevated stress levels aside.

We stopped by a house near the intersection and asked the fellow there about access - he was friendly, but wasn't encouraging, so we took the longer option.  The gravel Millers Road took us through to the main Pahiatua-Pongaroa route, leaving us with just shy of 20-sealed-kilometres back to the car.

The upside of that was getting to ride the beautifully scenic Makuri Gorge...

... though Simon did point out a nasty Old-Man's-Beard infestation.

We continued the tradition of returning to an unmolested car, and after a food stop in Pahiatua, and a shower stop in Carterton (during which time we also unloaded the coffee machine and a few other bits and pieces), we were soon bidding each other farewell in Petone.

The final ride was only 64km, and the shortest time-wise too, despite the slow travel on the Makairo Track - probably half of the loop was sealed, and we literally saw only two moving cars the whole time.    Data:

* * *

As it turned out, this made a bloody fine alternative to a traditional cycle tour - and it was certainly nice not to have overnight gear on board.   The base was a long drive from Wellington, and while the area's beautiful, you'd have to be pretty committed to drive all the way out there and back just for a day-ride.

I've scoped out a great loop which I'll do from Alfredton one day this summer (Pori Rd to Makuri and then Rimu Rd across to Route 52), and there's more north of Pongaroa waiting for another long weekend!

The quality time with Simon was long overdue, and I'd like to think neither of us will put up with such a long gap again.

Three anti-clockwise loops, done successively westward

After a wonderful month in France, my enthusiasm for riding is rising with the ambient air temperature.  Work is nuts, and it's all too easy to fall into the trap of the double whammy that is not riding (more time to work stresses the brain even more, coupled with less physical and mental recharge), but this weekend definitely helped on all fronts!

Monday, July 30, 2018

Capping it all off!

The team were joined for dinner by some family and friends after the final stage, and then I left the hotel to stay in an apartment with Sarah.  It was strange to be away from everyone after almost four weeks together.

I'd left my bike at the hotel, so we returned there for breakfast, and again, it was fascinating to note my relief to be back there - funny what becomes familiar, and how dependant we can become.

We'd always planned to see the race finish, but given our proximity to the start (it had been a relatively straightforward 4km ride there the previous day), I suggested we go there as well.

Stu, Bruce, Steven and I were the remaining riders, with Paul off to Malaysia, Mike and Aaron independently to Italy, and Jason back to New Zealand.  Jonny dropped us all off, and Sarah and I wandered around with Stu, eventually laying claim to a 1 metre span of fence in a big courtyard.

Stu - what an amazing rider, man, and friend
While Stu and I chatted, Sarah darted off to watch the publicity caravan pass, then eventually we hit paydirt, and the riders started filing past to sign on. 

Mikel Nieve chatting to Mikel Landa, with eventual stage winner, Alexander Kristoff just behind
Dion Smith seemed to approach the stage from behind, but we were excited to see Jack Bauer riding past.  He ignored our first cries of "Jack, Jack...", but when I shouted "KIWI", he turned with a big smile, contemplated pulling a u-turn, and shouted "I'll be back!".  He did return, and seemed very happy to linger, and had even been following our own progress around France.

Jack chatting to Stu
About half the first riders had not come past, but we were indeed on the main thoroughfare. 

Geraint Thomas, vainquer
Many riders had completely neutral expressions on their faces, and didn't interact with the crowd at all.  The French riders were popular, and Romain Bardet was one of very few that did stop! 

Winner of the Mountains jersey, Julian Alaphilippe, with something for the after-match?

Best U23 rider, Pierre Latour, talking to race director, Christian Prudomme

Unfortunately, Paddy Bevin hadn't made it through the tour, but the fourth NZ starter, Tom Scully, dropped by for a chat with Stu, who knew him well from racing in Canterbury.

The crowd went somewhat wild, when current world champion, Peter Sagan arrived.  It was very cool to see perhaps the rider of this generation, and undoubtedly an all-time great, pass by only centimetres away.

Peter Sagan, Champion du Monde, 2015, 2016, 2017

Nairo Quintana, Sarah's favourite rider
We started seeing more and more riders filing past on the race route just down the way, and it was clear the riders were about to get going.  Sagan was on his way back, when I spotted a pen lying in the middle of the path, and just on the corner.  Being slightly OCD, I motioned to an official to move it - probably not a hazard, but you never bloody know.  He misunderstood, picked it up and gave it to me.

Providence perhaps.  I'd also plucked a Skoda-sponsored cap out of the hedge when we spectated briefly on the Stage 2 route.  When that was waved by Sarah at the Skoda-sponsored green jersey wearer, he stopped.  I handed her the pen.  She gave it to him.  He signed the cap.

Peter Sagan, making someone else's day, too
The amazingness of it all was apparent, but it probably hasn't fully sunk in how magical that moment was.  When we caught up with Dr Fish, he noted he'd got signatures from riders 20 years ago, but I'm not going to let that diminish those precious moments watching the best riders in our sport get ready to do their thing.

I'm about to return home, with some incredible memories, and a few incredible mementos.  It was a twist of fate that Sarah caught two caps flung from the caravan, that Jack signed both, and that together, we have two beautiful daughters.

I can't think of a better place for the green cap to reside than Oli's workshop - I've thought about him so much during this trip, not only because my bike has run like a dream, but also because I know he will  have been constantly thinking about me, riding the stage he'll watch on TV the next day.

Bromance is a wonderful thing, and I've developed a few new ones on this trip.  Relationships and experiences are where its at folks, but things from time to time embody those.

The stage start was the perfect way to round things off.  We returned to the hotel, and it was an emotional moment saying goodbye to Bruce and Stu, and Julie and Jonny in particular, people I'd all connected with, and will look to see in the future.  Sarah and I left together, and didn't seek out the race on TV.  I'd seen more than enough.

Signing off, from France.

* * * * * 

This blog describes a fundraising project for the Mental Health Foundation of New Zealand.
  • Nearly 50% of New Zealanders will experience a mental health problem in their lifetime, and one in five will have experienced a mental illness this year.
  • Depression is set to overcome heart disease as the biggest global health burden by 2020.
  • The Mental Health Foundation (MHF) is a charity that works towards reducing stigma and discrimination associated with mental illness. We provide free support, training, and resources for anyone who is going through a difficult time, or for people who are supporting loved ones.
To make a donation, visit  Any contribution, big or small is greatly appreciated, and will be put to good use by the fine folk at MHF.

Stage 21 (2018 Tour de France, one day ahead)

The final stage into Paris was short, but not without its challenges.  Firstly, we had to travel about 700km to get to the start, and then, we had to quickly come to grips with Parisian drivers.

The transfer post-Stage-20 was meant to be simple, especially for us riders.  Roger left with the bikes as soon as they were packed in the van after the TT stage, and the two vans dropped us at the Biarritz railway station after we'd had a chance to shower.

Unfortunately, a fire in Paris had disrupted TGV services, including hours, and, long story short, around the time we were scheduled to arrive into Gare Montparnasse in Paris, we were boarding a regional train to Bordeaux.  By the time we arrived there, our crew had been waiting several hours, and with the TGV situation still not resolved, we were driven to Tours.  We managed 6 hours sleep, before knocking off the remaining drive in the morning.

The good news was that my tummy bug had gone as quickly as it had arrived.  By about 7:30pm, I'd begun to feel hungry, and the first food I'd eaten in 24 hours stayed put.  When I suited up for the ride, I was feeling well enough to enjoy it.

Roger (in green) farewelling Matty
Jonathan had touched base with the women's manager, and they'd welcomed us to ride with them.  When we arrived at the start venue just before noon, it was clear that they were well organised, with motorcycle escorts.

It was great seeing these guys on the road each day, doing the same thing as us, but fundraising for muscular dystrophy support
It was nice to meet the Chargé d’Affairs, Roger Dungan from the NZ Embassy here in Paris, and he and his family gave us a nice cheer when we rolled out near the back of the peloton.

Aaron had an unfortunate puncture, but the rear motos not only waited for him, but also radioed ahead and the bunch was slowed by the forward marshalls.

There were a few scheduled stops, and the bunch grew dramatically throughout the ride.

It was weird to all of a sudden be in a bunch of a few hundred, but when we reached Paris, it was clear that we were much better off in this peloton than we'd have been on our own.

It was also clear why the professionals choose to enjoy this final stage, rather than continue racing.  Of course the stage honours are on the table, but for us, and no doubt them, it was an opportunity to enjoy one another's company, and to reflect on the significant challenges that had been overcome to get to this point.

I'd ridden on the Champs-Elysees before, and so was prepared for it to be a frustrating affair, and one which seems at odds with the rest of the event.  After riding so freely almost everywhere else on the course, we were forced to stop probably more times on this stage than we'd been virtually the rest of the trip put together.

Flanked by Mike and Steven.   Photo:  Nick Paulsen

Because of traffic concerns, we weren't able to replicate the exact course at the end, and we only did one abbreviated lap.  But it didn't matter.  Riding 8-abreast with my riding buddies of the last three weeks was quite a hoot, and while the uneven nature of the road surface made it somewhat hard to hold our lines, it was a fun experience.

My dear parents were at the side of the road yelling, and I saw Sarah (for the first time since Pornic, the night before we started), just before we finished.  It was wonderful to be reunited with them all before the team and I rode back to the hotel.

Happy couple, both looking forward to returning to normal life!

Donnons des elles au velo, J-1

As Paul so nicely put it:
By far the best part of the whole ride, for me, was the journey back to the hotel. Finally it was just us again, Team NZ, the average joe kiwis who had risen the whole damn tour. No entourage. I was free to smash the city streets of Paris just as fast as I wanted to go. Freedom on the roads. That is what cycling is about, that is why we do it. Fully unencumbered. It felt so good. I’ll remember the journey back to the hotel with team far more fondly than Stage 21 itself.
It made me realise I'd felt similarly, and it was one of many insights gained during this great opportunity to reflect on an amazing riding experience.  More on that another time.

Matty's take on it:

* * * * * 

This blog describes a fundraising project for the Mental Health Foundation of New Zealand.
  • Nearly 50% of New Zealanders will experience a mental health problem in their lifetime, and one in five will have experienced a mental illness this year.
  • Depression is set to overcome heart disease as the biggest global health burden by 2020.
  • The Mental Health Foundation (MHF) is a charity that works towards reducing stigma and discrimination associated with mental illness. We provide free support, training, and resources for anyone who is going through a difficult time, or for people who are supporting loved ones.
To make a donation, visit  Any contribution, big or small is greatly appreciated, and will be put to good use by the fine folk at MHF.